Is your skin dehydrated or do you have immune fatigue?

In winter it can be hard to know how to take care of your skin as the weather cools down. 

Most of us are dealing with a combination of skin issues — most commonly dehydrated or dry skin.

But according to integrated facialist and glass skin expert, April Brodie, it's important to pay close attention to your complexion in the cooler months. 

Post-summer inflammation colliding with winter stressors like cold air, indoor heating and cortisol spikes is when we see the skin snap, Brodie tells BEAUTYcrew.

"What looks like dehydration is often immune fatigue — your skin's repair system is overwhelmed," she explains. 

What is the difference between dry or dehydrated skin, and immune fatigue?

Dry skin is a skin type that lacks natural oils, making it feel tight, rough, and possibly flaky, while dehydrated skin means your skin lacks water, says Brodie.

Dehydrated skin often feels tight, but looks greasy, with more pronounced fine lines. But immune fatigue impacts the skin's ability to defend itself, causing more signs of inflammation and irritation.

"It’s not just about moisture; it's about how your skin reacts to stress," Brodie explains.

What are the signs of immune fatigue?

"Immune fatigue can show up in different ways, and your skin might be one of the first places it appears," Brodie tells us. "Keep an eye out for increased inflammation, unexpected breakouts, sensitivity, or a dull overall look."

You might also notice that your blemishes don't heal quite as fast as they usually do, and your skin is irritated more often.

"When immune fatigue kicks in, your skin might lose its healthy glow, becoming more red and uneven in texture," Brodie explains. 

How to combat tired skin

To combat immune fatigue at home, Brodie recommends a complete overhaul of your daily routine.

After all, your skin is simply a symptom of a greater underlying issue.

Improve your diet with antioxidant-rich foods like berries and leafy greens, and drink plenty of water to stay hydrated. And make sure your aiming for seven to nine hours of sleep every night to help your skin repair, and managing stress by practising mindfulness, or engaging in gentle exercises like yoga, says Brodie.

What's the best skin care for tired-looking skin?

Once you've addressed the areas of your lifestyle that may need some improvement, Brodie recommends tackling your imbalanced complexion with a dedicated skin care routine. 

To support skin balance, consider integrating ingredients like niacinamide (vitamin B3), hyaluronic acid, ceramides, antioxidants (such as vitamin C), probiotics, aloe vera, and green tea extract, she tells us. 

"Incorporating these ingredients into your skincare routine can help maintain a healthy, balanced complexion, even when your immune system is feeling fatigued," Brodie explains. "But always consider patch testing new products, and if in doubt, consult a professional."

1/ Niacinamide

"Niacinamide is excellent for reducing inflammation, improving skin elasticity, and strengthening the skin barrier, [and] it helps minimise redness and soothe irritated skin," she explains. 

The integrated facialist recommends the COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence (usually $38.89, now on sale for $15.69 from Beauty Amora), which contains niacinamide and snail mucin to soothe and repair, while providing moisture and enhancing skin's elasticity.

But she also likes The Ordinary's Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% ($17 from Adore Beauty) — a popular and affordable option for reducing inflammation and refining pores — and Rationale's resilience collection (from $114 at Rationale), which boasts formulations with a B-group vitamin complex, developed for each skin type resulting in stronger, more hydrated skin.

2/ Hyaluronic acid

"Known for its incredible ability to retain moisture, hyaluronic acid can help hydrate and plump the skin, minimising fine lines and keeping [skin] supple," says Brodie.

She likes the Laneige Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Essence Toner (usually $42.97, now on sale for $41.50 from Beauty Amora) — "infused with hydro-ionised mineral water and hyaluronic acid, this essence deeply hydrates and revitalises the skin" — and Rationale's The Radiance Booster Serum ($160 from Rationale).

"Designed to enhance hydration, it targets dryness, dullness, and delivers long lasting moisture," she explains.

3/ Ceramides

Ceramides are lipids that help form the skin's barrier and retain moisture, and they are essential for protecting the skin from environmental damage and ensuring it remains hydrated.

"Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream (usually $80, now on sale for $45.95 from Lila Beauty) is rich in ceramides, helping to restore the skin barrier and lock in moisture," says Brodie.

She also rates Rationale's integrity collection (from $80 at Rationale), which contains formulations enriched with a ceramide and lipid complex  to restore and nourish the skin's barrier function.

4/ Antioxidants

"Antioxidants help protect the skin from free radical damage, brighten the complexion, and support overall skin health," says Brodie. "Vitamin C serums are also known for their anti-ageing properties."

The skin expert recommends skin care products that contain at least a few antioxidant-rich ingredients to get the most benefit for your skin.  

"Laneige's Water Sleeping Mask (usually $30.18, now on sale for $29.95 from Beauty Amora) contains evening primrose root extract and other antioxidants, which refresh and protect the skin overnight," says Brodie.

Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Serum ($242 from Adore Beauty) is highly regarded for its efficacy and potency, and Rationale's vitality collection (from $122 at Rationale), uses an antioxidant complex with vitamin C across each of it's formulations to target each skin type, resulting in an infinitely brighter complexion.

5/ Probiotics

"Skincare products containing probiotics can balance and restore good bacteria on the skin, supporting the skin's natural defence mechanisms," Brodie explains. 

TULA Skincare Purifying Face Cleanser ($59 from MECCA) is infused with probiotics to balance and cleanse the skin, without stripping it of its natural moisture, she says.

Personally, we reach for BYOMA's probiotic and ceramide-enriched Balancing Face Mist ($25 from Sephora) after cleansing to prep our skin for the rest of our routine. 

6/ Aloe vera

A soothing ingredient that can calm irritated skin and provide moisture, products infused with aloe vera like Nature Republic's Aloe Vera 92% Soothing Gel ($9.99 from W Cosmetics) and Holika Holika's Aloe 99% Soothing Gel (usually $18, now on sale for $11.80 from Lila Beauty) can be a great way to reset your complexion when worn as an overnight face mask.

7/ Green tea extract

"Rich in antioxidants, green tea extract can reduce inflammation and protect the skin from environmental stressors, improving skin texture, strengthening the skin's moisture barrier, and enhancing radiance," Brodie explains. 

She recommends the Innisfree Green Tea Seed Serum (usually $45, now on sale for $36 from Priceline), which harnesses the power of green tea to reduce inflammation, moisturise, nourish and soothe dehydrated skin.

What are the best in-clinic treatments for tired skin?

"If you're dealing with skin that's feeling a little worn out from immune fatigue, in-clinic treatments can be just what you need to give it a fresh boost," says Brodie. 

"LED Light Therapy is magic — different light wavelengths work to rejuvenate the skin — I love how the red LED reduces inflammation and helps skin heal itself," she explains. "It’s gentle and super effective for bringing back skin vitality."

A good hydrating facial can really drench skin in moisture, and when you add some facial massage into the mix, it takes it to a whole new level, says the skin expert.

"Honestly, nothing beats a good facial massage. It invigorates the skin, boosts blood flow, and delivers those essential nutrients right where my skin needs them most," she explains. "Massage stimulates circulation, getting those essential nutrients and oxygen flowing — it's great for reducing puffiness and making skin look radiant. Plus, it’s incredibly relaxing and a major stress reliever, perfect for keeping fatigue at bay."

Brodie also really rates microcurrent therapy, which she says is like a workout for the face.

"This treatment uses low-level electrical currents to tone, firm, and boost collagen," she explains. "It’s amazing for lifting any sagging skin and restoring some elasticity, especially when skin is stressed or run down, because it boosts cellular energy by increasing ATP (adenosine triphosphate) production — essential for immune resilience."

"It also enhances circulation and reduces inflammation," she continues. "Ensuring your skin gets its nutrients and the oxygen it needs for recovery."

"Each of these treatments has its own unique perks, and mixing them with a solid at-home routine can really elevate your skin game," she tells us. "Team up with a knowledgeable skincare professional to pinpoint the perfect treatment plan that fits your needs — your skin will thank you."

Main image credit: @camimendes

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